26 July 2008

JOGLE DAY NINE-Shrewsbury to Slimbridge

SATURDAY 26 JULY
117 MILES 1580 METRES ASCENT

As Francis has said below, it was another cracker of a day. After our filling B&B breakfast we headed out at 9am in short sleeves for another exploratory meander. Generally it was pretty flat compared to most other days, but there were a few wee crackers of climbs to make us suffer a bit in the heat, but generally cycling along we created enough of a cooling wind to make it a very enjoyable day. I had never been to this part of the country (other than the Wrekin Hill Race years ago)and it was great to be cycling round these wonderful rural lanes, pretty much free of traffic but full of wonderful thatched houses, renovated farm buildings and, of course, brilliant country pubs serving real ales - unfortunately we committed the cardinal sin of drinking lager shandies as we needed the refeshment they provided, as a few pints of real ale at lunch would probably have had us sleeping at the handle bars afterwards, so sorry barman! The night's hostel was right down near the River Severn by a lovely canal, where Francis'family met us and treated us to scampi-in-a-basket in a cafe nearby and some lovely local cyder.

FRANCIS' ACCOUNT=
Another long day! The weather has been incredibly hot and sunny as we have navigated our way southwards through Shropshire, Worcestershire and Gloucestershire using a myriad of narrow lanes. The cycling was excellent and the pub at which we stopped, at random, for lunch turned out to have been chosen as the CAMRA pub of the year for the West Midlands.

One noticeable change during our ride has been the change in the smells, from that of wildflowers in the Highlands to that of ripening corn in the Midlands. The second striking change has been in the day length. In the Highlands, it was light at ten o'clock, but here it is dark before ten.

John has been amused by the posts which are used to indicate the depth of water near bridges and by some painted marks on a bridge which indicated the depths of recent floodes.

JOGLE DAY EIGHT- Mankinholes to Shrewsbury

FRIDAY 25 JULY
120 MILES 2205 METRES ASCENT

We left Bill Oddie and his hostel early as usual and enjoyed some nice back roads for a few miles till we hit the main roads alongside the Rochdale Canal. The next section was pretty horrible, skirting the busy roads of rush hour traffic round near Oldham and Rochdale and the general Greater Manchester area. It was hot and sticky and busy and not enjoyable. We headed just west of the High Peak District, glimpsing its rounded hills nearby,through Glossop and down to Chapel en-le-Frith and Buxton where we zoomed past miles of stationary traffic to hot and sweaty Buxton. here we cooled down with lunch in a Christian cafe called The Source. The scenery and traffic improved from hereon and we skirted round Stoke and on to Cheadle where we meandered round in a circle for a bit, our trusty road atlas not really helping much in the maze of roads. Onwards through Stone and Eccleshall and then miles of lovely country lanes in the late evening sun as our destination near Shrewsbury never seemed to get any closer. It was a real grind of a day, and I was really pleased to see Florence after 120 miles and about 12 hours in the saddle. She whisked us off to our B&B in Shrewsbury, and after a refreshing shower we were treated to a lovely meal out. A busy busy day.

FRANCIS' ACCOUNT=
This will be remembered as the day when we rode 120 miles to arrive at the wrong place! It is a little known fact that there are two places called Albrighton, and we arrived at the wrong one, i.e. the one at which we had not booked accomodation. Fortunately, our support staff (Florence and her husband, Frank) found an alternative B&B for us.

The day was a long one, beginning with a lot of traffic and steep climbs as we picked our way around Manchester. It was good to see the Pennine towns and to see the change in the landscape as we headed down into the White Peak. A road closure sent us high onto a ridge, causing much sweating in the heat, but it gave us reat views of the Roaches.

At the end of the day, I am very aware that we have just passed along the length of the Pennines, fron the northern Pennines to the White Peak and are now in the relatively flat lands of the Midlands.

JOGLE DAY SEVEN - Langdon Beck to Mankinholes

THURSDAY 24 JULY
97 MILES 2455 METRES ASCENT

It was a bit grey and dull when we breezed out of this lovely lonely eco-friendly hostel on the Penine Way. However, after miles of downhill free wheeling towards Middleton in Teesdale and Barnard Castle things warmed up and got brighter. We were leaving the barren and strangely beautiful wastelands of the Penines for the Yorkshire Dales. We had big long climbs on misty moors - Scargill High Moor -a la "American Werewolf in London/League of Gentlemen", lots of stone dykes in rolling farmland and fortunately an abundance of tea shops. Our first was in the lovely wee village of Reeth where we had to have the local delicacy of Wensleydale cheese and fruitcake to energise us. We cycled through Arkengarthdale, Wharfedale, Kettlewell, past Kilnsey Crags, stopped for blogging and soup&sandwiches in cute Grassington, down past Bolton Abbey. We encountered our busiest traffic yet going through Keighley to Haworth but weaved our way past the traffic jams easily enough. A long drag of a climb out of Haworth was rewarded with a speedy open descent into Hebden Bridge, well familiar to me during my races of the Hamorth Hobble/Wuthering Hike. A brief stop for supplies here and then along a not to busy road to Todmorden where a final sharp nasty descent then led into the Mankinholes Hostel, one of the checkpoints on the Hike/Hobble. The hostel was staffed by a Bill Oddie lookalike, and had a lounge with lovely soft comfy seats to relax in after our hilly day up and down the Dales.

FRANCIS'account=
Rather scarily, the total distance covered at the end of today's ride was 666 miles!
We rode the length of the Dales today, starting with some demanding, steep climbs. As usual, a major climb came towards the end of the day, when we crossed from Haworth to Hebden Bridge. It was fascinating to see the landscape changing, in the course of one day, from typical northern Pennine scenery, to limestone dales and then to the scenery typical of the gritstone country. The weather turned hot as the day progressed, making it necessary to take on lots of fluids. This, of course, was the incentive for an early stop at a very nice cafe in Reeth. Mankinholes youth hostel is inconsiderately located at the top of a very steep road, near Todmorden, causing us to 'bust a gut' during the final ten minutes of cycling, but it is blessed with a very comfortable and welcoming set of chairs in its common room.

24 July 2008

JOGLE DAY SIX - Melrose to Langdon Beck

WEDNESDAY 23 JULY
98 MILES 2000 METRES
We had the company of fellow Westie and local Damon Rodwell for the steep pull out of Melrose round the side of the Eildons. He and Francis left me for dead as I laboured up the steep hills so early on in the day. Once things evened out we enjoyed lovely rolling country roads east of the A7 round to Hawick, where the Morrisons' toilet proved a godsend to me. From there we took the cracking road out to Newcastleton, gentle slopes with one final drag, before a swooping descent for miles past the local llamas(alpacas?)down into the planned village of Newcastleton. We found yet another lovely tea shop where we enjoyed soup and sandwiches, and I stocked up on home baking, including a wonderful slice of home made Battenberg cake. Damon headed back off home and we headed on to deserted country roads - Kershope Forest, Bewcastle - over the Border into Northumberland and Hadrian's Wall country near Gilsland and Greenhead. Crossing the main road to Newcastle we had a really steep pull over on to the minor roads, past Featherstone Castle. Lonely moor roads past Slaggyford led us to another tea stop in cobbled Alston, which after coke floats and scones and jam fuelled us up nicely (apart from my bonking after 5 mins-too much sugar) for the slog up to a high point of 600 metres on the grouse moors, before the descent to the lonely Youth Hostel of Langdon Beck.

FRANCIS' ACCOUNT=
The road out of Melrose was cruel and there were a number of tough climbs during the day but we did begin to wonder whether there had been a national emergency when we found ourselves cycling along roads and past houses for several miles without seeing any vehicles or other signs of life.
We crossed into England just after a lunch stop in Newcastleton. I noticed that John has brought his passport with him but he didn't need it because we sneaked over the border on a backroad.
After a second cafe stop in Alston, there was a cruel end to the day when we had to do over a thousand feet of climbing to get over the watershed to Langdon Beck youth hostel. The one highlight of the final climb was to see a short-eared owl hunting near the summit.
Langdon Beck hostel is modern and environmentally friendly, with its wind-turbine, reed bed, recyled rain water, Sky television and many other features.

22 July 2008

JOGLE DAY FIVE - Stirling to Melrose

TUESDAY 22 JULY
98 MILES 1430 METRES

Yes, another disaster-free and sunshine-full (almost) day. We had an early start, cycling off at 8am under grey-ish skies. It was pretty mild though, and we got through the worst of the Stirling traffic fairly quickly on to some quiet country roads that led us through Stenhousemuir, Falkirk etc. over the M90 and into deepest, darkest West Lothian, famous for its "Five Sisters" bing (slagheap to you Sassenachs). We navigated through Blackburn and other lovely places to "California" - I kid you not, its just outside Falkirk. We then entered my home area of South Lanarkshire onto the wild and windswept A70 that led us to our lunch stop after 48 miles in Carnwath. We found a lovely little newsagents come cafe where we gorged on toasted paninis and chips, and I stocked up on some tablet. I then suggested a wee detour on some quiet B roads into Biggar, Coulter and on to Peebles. By now the sun had well and truly came out and the Borders scenery was magnificent. From Peebles we took a lovely little road parallel to the River Tweed through forests and riversides down to the outskirts of Galashiels. We stumbled upon a cracking series of cycle paths that took us nicely into sunny Melrose where the Eildons were looking down on us. The hostel here is a lovely old mansion house type building with a lovely outlook onto the trees, and even better a cracking shower. Francis' friend Florence met us here with supplies, beer and bright red prostate cancer T-shirts for us to parade around in. Tea soon and then off for a few beers in Melrose. Feels like we are really into it now.

FRANCIS' ACCOUNT=
A second incident-free day!
It did not take as long as expected for us to navigate our way out of the relatively built-up area to the south of Stirling and head into the rolling hills of southern Scotland. The threatening clouds which were around in the morning broke up and left us to complete another day's cycling in warm and sunny weather. We enjoyed some fast cycling on gently winding roads and found some lovely cycle tracks to take us the last few miles into Melrose, avoiding the main road. During the day, we saw some attractive small towns and villages and some more down-at heel ones, such as California, the village which describes itself as Scotland's sunshine village but which actually looks about as depressing as a village can be.
The most exciting event of the day for me was when I heard a peregrine falcon and then spotted one as it flew towards a quarry carrying a dead bird in its talons. Immediately, three other peregrines took to the air and started circling and calling. It appears that a pair of falcons must have raised a brood on the cliffs of the quarry and I was seeing the family as a parent returned with lunch.
The finish to today's ride was the best yet, when we found Florence waiting for us at the hostel with cold beers and other goodies.

21 July 2008

JOGLE DAY FOUR - Glencoe to Stirling

MONDAY 21 JULY
85 MILES 1140 METRES

Yes, folks this was how it should always be. Set off from Glencoe under a cloudless sky, with the looming ramparts of Glencoe proving an awasome opening hour or so. The drag up Rannoch Moor wasn't too bad, and there were lots of sweeping downhills to make up for the 1000 feet ascent. The views down south were tremendous, all the way across Rannoch Moor to Schiehallion on one side and the Bhucaille and Black Mount on the other. We literally zoomed past Bridge of Orchy and down into Tyndrum with more great views of Ben Dorain etc. and Ben More/Stobinian. Turning left at Crianlarich we had a nice straight level run across to Lix Toll, before the short sharp climb up to the head of Glen Ogle, where we latched on to the cycle path along the old railway, getting us away from the traffic and on to a lovely downhill cycle path to Balquhidder. Here we enjoyed a brill lunch in the sun with lashings of lemonade and ginger beer and "doorstopper" sandwiches that lived up to their billing at "The Old Library Teahouse". We stayed on the cycle path all the way down to Callander, alongside Loch Lubnaig glistening in the warm sunshine. We headed back on to quiet scenic country roads from Callander through to Deanston and Doune. It was back on to busy fast roads after that for the last 8 miles into Stirling, where we found the Hostel was at the top of a steep hill!! Bike owner Gordon came over with Sue to meet us for a lovely Thai curry and to check his trusty steed was being well looked after. He brought a new skinnier and more puncture-proof front tyre and, after a near deafening blowout when putting it on, this proved perfect.

20 July 2008

JOGLE DAY THREE - Glen Shiel to Glencoe

SUNDAY 20 JULY
80 MILES 880 METRES

Yes, I know I have missed Day Two, but see the previous post for my 300 mile car journey on Sat.

Anyway, Sunday in gorgeous Glen Shiel dawned a bit grey and overcast. I got Gordon's replacement bike all ready and headed off into the gloom for the climb up and over to the Cluanie Inn through majestic scenery. It was drizzly and cold to start and then it got worse - a blooming puncture! after only quarter of a mile. With this mended at the wee shop we headed off, only for the tyre to still lose air. Another roadside repair in the rain. This was getting tedious, especially as we realised that we had a dodgy puncture repair kit and a spare inner with the "wrong" sort of valve on it. However, we headed off again past the Cluanie dam and took a right for the slog up and over to Invergarry. At the top I once again had to stop and put more air in the tyre before the cracking descent down to Invergarry. The views at the top were amazing, all the way over to Glen Dessary and beyond. At the village we had a lovely bowl of soup and a pint of local ale, and, more importantly, a new puncture repair kit, yahoo!! Fully refreshed, repaired and inflated we were then off on to the busy road down the Great Glen to Spean Bridge and Fort William. Here I got a spare inner and another puncture repair kit, just to be sure. With the front tyre inflated with Off Beat Bike's track pump there was no stopping us as we hared off down to Glencoe. The views over to Ardgour were fantastic and on the bike you get plenty of time to take them all in, compared to the usual snatched views when driving. In Onich we had just bough our carry-out for that evening when there was an almighty screech behind me and I looked over my shoulder to see a car skid to a halt to my left on the verge. The lunatic had been speeding towards us from behind saw the juggernaut approaching from the opposite direction, and had one of 2 choices - plough into me or do an emergency skid to the side. Fortunately he chose the latter and even more fortunately he had somewhere to go. After that it was plain sailing down to the hostel in Glencoe village, fuelled by some tablet,where we chilled with some beer, tea and cake.

19 July 2008

JOGLE DAY ONE - John O'Groats to Carbisdale Castle

MORE DISASTERS AND MIRACULOUS RECOVERIES (well almost)

Things had been going well initially. Weather at 8.30 was actually OK, and we had a following wind blowing us nicely along the top of Scotland. We fairly scooted along past Thurso and enjoyed great sea views and rolling quiet roads. Dounreay sort of dominates, though is smaller than you might imagine, like lots of things I suppose!!
After 50 miles we stopped in Bettyhill for a cracking lunch at Elizabeth's Tea Room, with home made pea soup followed by acrrot cake for me, and battered black pudding, beans and chips for Francis. We then headed off nicely fuelled for the lonely cycle down to Carbisdale Castle, via Altnaharra and Lairg - well Francis did and I did in a fashion! Cycling past a lonely croft house I heard an ominous "ping" from my rear wheel and immediately stopped. It was a broken spoke, oh ###! After an hour of attempted repairs, we realised it was hopeless and I would have to get to Carbisdale via some other means. I let Francis head off and wandered about outside the house in a stunned daze, with my chances of a lift the remnaining 40 miles not looking great. However, God must have been smiling on me, or maybe it was reward for earlier releasing a lamb that was stuck in a fence, but the chap in the house came down his drive and asked me what was the matter? I explained my sorry predicament, to which he offered to drive me all the way to Carbisdale Castle there and then!!! What a gentleman you are Murdo! After tea and biscuits at his place, he drove me all the way down, passing poor Francis who was enduring wind and rain on his own. I met up with him later at the Hostel and planned our strategy. His was to cycle as planned to Glenshiel for 105 miles on his own - mine was to get the 6.45 train to Inverness, get in my car, drive home to Glasgow, borrow a friend's bike, drive up to Glenshiel, and resume on Sunday as planned!!! AS I sit here, that has all worked out and Francis had not too bad a day on his solo 105 miles, compared to my 300 miles in the car. Here's hoping that is all the disasters out of the way early!!!!!

61 MILES FOR ME - 105 MILES FOR FRANCIS

JOGLE DAY MINUS ONE

This day went fine. Nice train journey up to Thurso, 30 mile sunny cycle along to John O Groats Youth Hostel. Took in Dunnet Head, the real most northerly point on mainland Britain, with fab views out to Hoy and Orkney. As we were cycling into JOG we met Mark who was finishing his LEJOG. He shared his celebratory fizzy plonk with us later. Hopefully we will get to do likewise down at Lands End. Lovely wee hostel here and friendly warden. had an early night to prepare for our almost 100 mile first day.

17 July 2008

John O Groats to Lands End Cycle - DAY MINUS TWO

cycled one mile to East Kilbride Railway station, realised had forgotten mobile phone, which was charging on kitchen top. Never mind, can cope without it. Into Glasgow, along to Queen Street station, see early train to Perth, check ticket - except NO TICKET, NO WALLET, NO CARDS, OH ###.Panic panic panic!!! Cycle back to home, get mobile, get car , drive round and check for wallet, nowhere, cancel all cards, get emergency stash, drive to inverness, call to say wallet and caskh handed in. BRILLIANT.